Gabardine
 | This article's lead section may be too short to adequately summarize the key points. (November 2020) |
 | This article needs additional citations for verification. (September 2023) |
Gabardine is a durable twill worsted wool. It is a tightly woven waterproof fabric, and used to make outerwear and various other garments, such as suits, overcoats, trousers, uniforms, and windbreakers. It is often associated with the Burberry luxury fashion house and their trench coats. The name is related to "gaberdine", a type of long, cape-like dress worn during the Middle Ages.[1] Since its debut in the late 19th century, gabardine has taken on an important role in military, active, and outerwear due to its durable, breathable, waterproof, and lightweight nature. In particular, its widespread use by the British military during World War I produced the garments now widely recognized as the trench coat.
History
[edit]The word gaberdine or gabardine has been used to refer to a particular item of clothing, a sort of long cassock but often open at the front, since at least the 15th century. In the 16th century the term began to be used for outer garments of the poor, later narrowed to a rain cloak or protective smock-frock.[2][3]
The modern use to describe a fabric rather than a garment dates to Thomas Burberry, founder of the Burberry fashion house in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England, who invented the fabric and revived the name gabardine in 1879.[4] It was introduced by Burberry Clothing, and patented in 1888.[5] Prior to Burberry's development of gabardine, rubberized cotton was the most common fabric used for waterproofing, and the material's heaviness frequently made waterproof clothes uncomfortable.[4] Gabardine, by contrast, was a lightweight, durable, breathable material. Its ability to shed water and break wind while preserving comfortable wearability helped revolutionize outerwear.[4]
Production
[edit]The original fabric was worsted wool, sometimes in combination with cotton, and was waterproofed using lanolin before weaving.[6] Today the fiber may also be pure cotton, texturized polyester, or a blend.[citation needed]
Gabardine is woven as a warp-faced steep or regular twill, with a prominent diagonal rib on the face and smooth surface on the back. Gabardine always has many more warp than weft yarns.[7][8][2]
Applications
[edit]Gabardine was quicky recognized for its military applications in the United Kingdom. In 1902, the British War Office commissioned Burberry to use the material in designing new coats for its soldiers that would better withstand demanding battlefield conditions.[9] The original coat model produced by that commission was later updated, in 1914, in response to the harsh conditions of trench warfare during World War I. The suitability of gabardine to protecting soldiers from that environment resulted in the design's widespread recognition as a trench coat, which continues to have major influence in modern fashion.
Burberry clothing of gabardine was also worn by many polar explorers. The fabric's first arctic field test was performed by Fridtjof Nansen, a Norwegian scientist, explorer, diplomat, and eventual Nobel Peace Prize recipient who wore gabardine on his 1893 Fram expedition toward the North Pole.[4] Subsequent polar explorers donned gabardine after Nansen's expedition, including Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole, in 1911, and Ernest Shackleton, who used the material for clothing, tents, and even engine covers during a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica.[4][9] A jacket made of this material was worn by George Mallory on his attempt on Mount Everest in 1924.[10]
In the 1950s, gabardine was used to produce colorful patterned casual jackets, trousers and suits. Companies like J. C. Penney, Sport Chief, Campus, Four Star, Curlee, Towncraft, and Oxford Clothes produced short-waisted gabardine jackets, sometimes reversible, commonly known as "Ricky jackets" or "Gab jackets," along with the famous Hollywood leisure jackets that had been made since the 1930s.
Cotton gabardine is often used by bespoke tailors to make pocket linings for suits, where the pockets' contents would quickly wear holes in flimsy pocket lining material.[11]
Clothing made from authentic wool gabardine generally requires dry cleaning.[12]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]Notes
[edit]Citations
[edit]- ^ "gabardine". www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com. Retrieved 2024-07-09.
- ^ a b Picken 1973, p. 145.
- ^ Cumming, Cunnington & Cunnington 2010, p. 88.
- ^ a b c d e Hughes, Natalie (October 13, 2023). "History of the Hero: The Burberry trench". Harper's Bazaar. Retrieved July 26, 2024.
- ^ Tynan, Jane (2011). "Military Dress and Men's Outdoor Leisurewear: Burberry's Trench Coat in First World War Britain". Journal of Design History. 24 (2): 139–156. doi:10.1093/jdh/epr014. ISSN 0952-4649. JSTOR 23020368.
- ^ Royal Society of Chemistry
- ^ Kadolph 2007, pp. 240, 472.
- ^ Cumming, Cunnington & Cunnington 2010, p. 248.
- ^ a b Wen, Rachel. "How The Burberry Trench Coat Became The Icon Of British Fashion". Tatler Asia. Retrieved 2024-07-27.
- ^ Ainley, Janine (13 June 2006). "Replica clothes pass Everest test". BBC News. Retrieved 15 February 2022.
- ^ Jackets, Coats, and Suits from Threads Magazine. Taunton Press. 1992. p. 29. ISBN 9781561580484.
- ^ areatecnica (2022-01-03). "Gabardine fabric: what is it and how to use it?". Cimmino. Retrieved 2024-07-03.
Bibliography
[edit]- Cumming, Valerie; Cunnington, C. W.; Cunnington, P. E. (2010). The Dictionary of Fashion History. Berg. ISBN 978-1-84788-533-3..
- Kadolph, Sara J., ed. (2007). Textiles (10th ed.). Pearson Prentice Hall. ISBN 978-0-13-118769-6..
- Picken, Mary Brooks (1973) [1957]. The Fashion Dictionary. Funk & Wagnalls. ISBN 0-308-10052-2..
| Weaves |  | |
|---|---|---|
| Components | ||
| Tools and techniques | ||
| Types of looms | ||
| Weavers |
| |
| Employment practices | ||
| Mills | ||